Palermo is not
only Baroque Style, but is also a liberty style city. Between the
end of the Eight hundred and the beginning of the Nine hundred, it
realized the theatres, the villas and the buildings of a middle
class that wanted to feel to the height of the old city
aristocracy. “ For feelings and distant images, of when I came here
for the first time toward 1930, I often succeed in extracting from
the beautiful chaos that is Palermo an essentially liberty town,
almost a small capital of the art-nouveau." These words of the
Sicilian writer Leonardo Sciascia tell us how this town had to be a
long time ago, turning on the desire to go to verify how much has
gone lost and how much instead has survived with the assignment to
hand down the memory of a disappeared world.
Who reaches Palermo can feel today still the echoes of a city that,
between the end of the Eight hundred and the beginning of the Nine
hundred, had chosen the modernism, the so-called art-nouveau, to
realize works that showed the wealth and the prestige of an
entrepreneurial middle class in ascent. A class that intended to
build theatres rather than churches, and then buildings and villas
to the height of those of the ancient aristocracy. Here is the
liberty movement. It appears glorious in the insides of the Theatre
Massimo to which Ernesto Basile worked and directed the jobs since
1891, year of the death of his father Giovanni Battista Filippo,
inventor of the initial project, or in the splendid saloon of Villa
Igiea, painted in frescoes by Ettore De Maria Bergler, with an
explosion of young girl in flower among iris, poppies and
pomegranates.
But effigy that
better represents the liberty style is the portrait of Frank Florio
of the painter Giovanni Boldini where she wears her very famous
thread of pearls long seven meters. The same necklace that she is
wearing in a photo taken in 1904 while she welcomes the Emperor
William II in the park of her renewed house at the Olivuzza.
The picture,
today lost, it is known only through some reproductions. It seems
that it has been made twice by Boldini: Ignazio Florio didn't like
the lascivious air that the painter had attributed to his wife,
splendid and really admired daughter of the baron of St. Giuliano.
We must admit, however, that also in the second version Donna Franca
appears in all of her sensual beauty.
Just in Villa
Florio, the Florio was the most important family of industrialists
of the Palermo fin de siècles, there is the essential
characteristics of the architecture of Ernesto Basile who built it
only four years before the visit of the Kaiser in Sicily. It is in
this invented and scene graphic building, full of staircases,
turrets, arcs and projections, that Basile shows his love for the
Gothic and Renaissance culture from Sicily, together with a sincere
adjustment to the international art-nouveau movement.
The insides,
unfortunately destroyed in 1962 by a fire, had furniture, lamps
and staircases drawn by Basile and realized by the firm
Golia-Ducrot, one of the more profitable matches of the arts and
craft of the period. So much to represent the best of Italy at the
International exposure of Decorative Art in Turin in 1902.
The start to the
season liberty in Palermo had been given by Giovan Battista Filippo
Basile, who had been defined later on "free artist and initiator
of a Liberty style" - in 1889 with the project of Villa Favaloro in
Piazza Virgilio. A curved and sinuous line that builds and decorates
at the same time, a great variety of solutions that doesn't exclude
a meditation on the art of the past, the harmony between the
structure and the ornament that must exalt each other: this is the
inheritance that Ernesto receives from the light and fresh beauty of
Villa Favaloro. It puts it into practice, while projecting some
years later, a tower that widens the construction, crowned by a
decoration of leaves of grape and clusters of stylized grape. We are
in full flowery climate.
Palazzo Dato
, Vincenzo Alagna’s work, in Via XX Settembre strikes for its red
and yellow chromatist, very different from the white or from the
grey usually used, while in Via XII Gennaio the prospectus of
palazzo Failla is a continuous flow of woven lines.
A few meters
away, in Via Siracusa, we can find the house that Ernesto Basile
built for his family: Villino Ida, today the office of the
Superintendence for the monuments. It is a very simple construction,
enriched by coloured “ maiolicas” in yellow and in blue - the stamps
typical of this place - and by ornaments in wrought iron.
The
characteristic of the new art is that it invades every creative
field. From the furniture to the cloths, from the jewels to the
glasses, from the porcelain to the silver: everything is subdued to
the demands of the new taste. In this way, we find the glass door
realized by Pietro Bevilacqua in the turret of Villa Caruso planned
by Filippo La Porta , or the mosaic that shines on the grave of the
family Raccuglia in the cemetery of Sant' Orsola, modernist example
of funeral art. Here there is also the elegance that is expressed
in arcs, volutes, fake mullions and capricious coverage of the
kiosks disseminated in the city: they enchant the look, both the two
that frame the façade of the teatro Massimo – and the one in Piazza
Castelnuovo.
But perhaps the
most beautiful surprise is the sensation you feel while wandering
among the stands of the market of the Capo in front of the panel
in mosaic of a bakery in Piazza Sant ' Anna, where there is a figure
that seems the Italian answer to the female images painted by Klimt,
or by the exponents of the English Pre-Raphaelites movement
It is important
also to mention La Fondazione Thule Cultura in Palermo for the very
notable and rich collection of Liberty art.